Chateauneuf Du Pape Vieux Telegraphe 2021

Châteauneuf Du Pape Vieux Télégraphe 'La Crau', Famille Brunier, Southern Rhone, France, 2021  

Grapes: 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% Cinsault & Clairette, 50ha vineyard of 70 year old vines planted on clay & "galets roulés" soil, sustainable farming, hand-picked, partial destemming, fermented in both steel & wooden cuves, 20-22 months in French oak, bottled unfined & unfiltered

Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, liquorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, blackcurrants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Telegraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25+ years) given its power, full-bodied mouth feel, and enormous length and richness.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe does indeed derive its name from an old telegraph station, one which was once sited on the hill where this Châteauneuf domaine now stands

The Vieux Télégraphe vineyards are unusual in that they lie in a single block, on the La Crau plateau, today covering an area of 50 hectares. The ground is covered by the galets roulés, the large rounded stones which originated in the Alps to the east, and were transported down to lower lands by the action of floodwaters. They are classically associated with the vineyards of Châteauneuf du Pape, although they can also be found in other areas across the south of France. Beneath these stones there is a more organic soil, up to 1.5m deep, a molasse deposited here during the Miocene era, and then deeper again there is a red clay. The vines average an impressive 70 years of age.

Critics' Tasting Notes:

"The Grand Vin from this great estate, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Paoe reveals a semi-opaque ruby hue to go with a classic style in its ripe red and black berry fruits, peppery garrigue, leather, earth, black olive and baking spice-driven aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, and balanced, with fine tannins, it’s a beautiful wine in the vintage that should have 15 years of longevity."

93/100 points, Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com, August 2023

"Delicate aromas of spices, licorice, garrigue, dark berries and dark cherries preface the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau, a medium to full-bodied, layered and textured Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is framed around velvety, elegant tannins, with good depth at the core and a pure, precise texture that segues into a long, delicate and ethereal finish. Superb!"  Drink 2024-2044

95/100 points, Yohan Castaing, WINE ADVOCATE, October 2024

"Domaine Du Vieux Télégraphe, run by the Brunier family for five generations, is an emblematic name in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Located on the La Crau plateau, a legendary terroir characterized by its rounded pebbles, this "La Crau 2021" vintage offers a powerful and refined red wine with impressive aromatic depth. Aromas of ripe red fruits—cherry and raspberry—are generously enveloped in notes of garrigue, thyme, and lavender, reminiscent of the Provençal landscape. With aeration, spicy and slightly peppery touches emerge, offering a captivating complexity. On the palate, it is distinguished by a clean and velvety attack. The tannins, present yet silky, provide remarkable structure, leading to a persistent finish. The characteristic minerality of the La Crau terroir is also present, bringing a welcome freshness that balances the wine's richness. Decant for approximately 1 hour and serve at 17°C. Excellent with beef stew, pepper steak, duck breast with figs, rack of lamb, or venison with Grand Veneur sauce."  Drink 2025-2040

95/100 points, BACCHUS MAGAZINE (Canada), September 2024

Food Match: Drink with spicy lamb or chicken dishes, strong cheeses.