With exactly one month to go until the Christmas festivities begin in earnest, I'm asking whether you're the sort of person who likes to keep to traditions, or one who's always looking for something new?
Port has long been championed enthusiastically by the traditionalists. There's a lot of history associated with the production of this fine Iberian wine and the combination of a mature vintage port and a potent British Stilton blue cheese is something not to be missed. Don't worry, you won't instantly transform into a crusty old Colonel, but your political views might slide somewhat to the right. It's a risk you may, or may not, wish to take!
With the (no doubt) over consumption of a traditional Christmas helping of roast turkey with all the trimmings, followed by copious quantities of flaming, brandy-soaked "pudd", it's time for the final "gut busting" cheese course. You do know that it's a proven scientific fact that "there's always room for cheese"?
Historical precedence would suggest that this cheese has to be an aged Stilton and the port should be a carefully decanted Vintage. There are some detractors who say that using an old Tawny port is better, but I'm not sure if I'm willing to break with the establishment's rules on such an important day. You wouldn't want to revive another British tradition, the Christmas Day family row, now would you?
Taylor's (or Taylor Fladgate as the Americans/colonials like to call it) has an enviable reputation for its vintage ports going back over a remarkable four century period. With perfect, or near perfect critics' scores, from a huge number of their declared vintages, this is a port house which offers an almost guaranteed experince of the quality which can be achieved in the region, but you do have to WAIT for the wines to mature. Generally, they're still young at twenty years of age and 50+ is quite normal. Once they hit their "drinking plateau", they remain at that level for decades, slowly declining into the far distant future and probably out-living you!
If you're thinking of having a bottle of the 1985 this festive season you're onto a winner with Michael Broadbent MW, saying in his second "Great Vinage Wine Book", that he considers the wine to have "Great potential. 5 Stars, potentially outstanding"... and he's a tradition in his own right. Equally of importance is your Stilton. Get some from a reputable cheesemonger (or an affineur) and let it reach room temperature before serving.
If your enjoyment of port leans more towards developed flavours of caramelised and dried fruit, rather than young, fruity and fresh, you're going to be interested in the taste spectrum of an aged Tawny. The wines are very different in style, but each have their proponents.
Are you fond of nibbling on nuts? If so, you're going to need a bottle of the finest tawny style port to wash it all down. A classic and traditional combination is a healthy bowl of olives, walnuts and salted almonds patnered up with the equally glorious nutty flavours of a barrel aged 10 or 20 year old tawny. Personally, I'd go with a Kopke port as the house is renowned for making these award-winning wines. Established in 1638, they're the oldest port producer, and you'll find that these delicious tawnies work beautifully with any combination of nut-based desserts. Throw in some sticky toffee or chocolate snacks and your tawny will be sublime. This is what Vinum Magazine said of the 20 year old earlier this year:
"More walnut is rarely found – then comes chocolate and toffee. A light, melting texture on the palate, again that subtle caramel note, before the gripping acidity shatters the comforting feeling. Almost razor-sharp on the tongue, truly vertical, almost polished. An acidity rarely found in this style. Promises great Tawny pleasure!" Awarded 97/100 points
The house's 10 year old is almost as good with a slightly less oxidative character due to the younger average age of its component wines. Critic, Tamlyn Currin, from JancisRobinson.com, waxes lyrical about this wine and I'd certainly agree. I don't think I've ever seen so many flavour adjectives used to describe one single wine, but they're all necessary. Read the review here.
Another traditional port-based drink, which is a popular addition to any winter's day out, is a "Mulled Port" punch. Swap out your normal bottle of red wine for some decent ruby/LBV port and gently heat with spices like cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, along with citrus slices. Beloved of those in the countryside partaking in hunting/shooting/fishing sports, it's even permissible for visiting "townies" to consume in moderation on a biting winter's morning.
For those of you who consider themselves to be the modern type, sipping gin and cocktails in a bar, you'll no doubt be surprised that port can also be used as a mixer drink. Showing my complete ignorance of such things, the first cocktail to mention is the "Porto Flip". Personally, it sounds a touch too vigorous and energetic for me, so I'll play safe and stick with the Stilton on this occasion. Some might remark that I've stuck with the cheese on too many occasions and not done enough flipping. Anyway, that's for next year's New Year resolution to remedy.
Using simple ingredients including brandy, an egg yolk and ruby port (mixed in a 1:1:3 ratio), all shaken well and strained into a chilled cocktail glass, you'll have a drink which will surprise your friends who'll be seen immediately making a new story for their Instagram account, or even, for the alcohol adverse Gen Z youngsters, a TicTok video of such an outrageous concoction. I mean, it's alcoholic and it actually tastes nice. To top it off, and give it that classic lounge-bar look, garnish with a dusting of freshly grated nutmeg for a hint of spice on the nose. Who said port couldn't be (a bit) trendy and even fashionable? If only they could do the same for Sherry? They've been trying for years!
Another well known cocktail for all the wine-loving tipplers out there is the "Porto Tonic", favourite of many a Portuguese bar patron. I came across this on a port tasting tour in the Douro Valley. No idea of the producer who served it, but I remember being on a terrace in the hot sunshine and it was a very refreshing drink to sip while waiting for the real event to follow later that day. Okay, so I would have been perfectly happy sucking on some ice cubes (it was that hot), but at least it had flavour as well as the much appreciated chill effect. It's possibly the easiest cocktail to make yourself at home. Fill a tall glass with as many ice cubes as possible, add a few splashes of your white port of choice, and top up with straight tonic water. Finish with the obligatory slice of lemon and you're all done. So simple, even I could make one. Unless you need your cocktail to be blue or pink in colour (and some do), you'd fit right in with the crowd in any cocktail bar and you'd still be gin/tequila/rum free.
So, have you decided to be a port traditionalist or a modernist? I think I know where my loyalties lie, but the decision is yours to make.
Pass the port, dear boy!!!